Forty minutes before sunrise, the engine is switched off and the noise begins. Not above the water, where there is only the slap of a low swell against the hull and a tern complaining somewhere to the east, but below it, and only once Imogen Sarre has lowered a hydrophone—an underwater microphone about the size of a lipstick, on 20 meters of yellow cable—over the side and handed me the headphones. What comes through is a crackle, dense and unbroken, like a fire of very dry twigs heard from inside the grate. Under it, every few seconds, something grunts. Something else knocks twice, like a knuckle on a door. Then comes a long, rising whoop, which nobody at the station has yet matched to the fish that makes it.

“That’s a reef that’s doing all right,” Sarre says. She is 41, an acoustic ecologist at the Halbridge Marine Laboratory, and this is her ninth season on Merrow Atoll, a ring of coral and sand in the western Indian Ocean with one inhabited island, one field station, and 14 fixed hydrophones that have recorded two minutes in every 10, day and night, since 2017. We are over the atoll’s north rim, in 11 meters of water. Moses Lalanne, who skippers the station’s boat and has dived these reefs for 31 years, starts the engine again and runs us south across the lagoon. On the south rim he cuts it, Sarre lowers the hydrophone again, and the fire has gone out. The crackle is still there, thinner. The grunts and knocks are mostly gone. It sounds, Lalanne says, “like a house after the party.”

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