On the front at Westmere, deckchairs are rented by the hour. You pay at a green hut beside the lifeguard station, where a man named Wilf Amory tears a ticket from a roll and writes the time on it in pencil. Then he carries a striped chair down the shingle, sets it up wherever you point, and adjusts the back to the angle you want with a single practiced shove of his boot. He has done this for 23 summers. Last August I paid him for two hours, sat down, opened a novel, and checked the time. It was 11:06.

By 11:50 I was gone. In those 44 minutes I had read four pages, answered three emails, and looked at the sea in the dutiful way one looks at a painting in a museum when one’s feet hurt, and then I had felt, rising in my chest like heartburn, the conviction that I ought to be doing something. I took the chair back. Wilf looked at the ticket and did not seem surprised. “Most people pay for two hours and leave after 40 minutes,” he said. “They sit like they’re waiting for a bus.”

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