Every morning at 10, someone on the fourth floor of the old zoology building at the University of Halbridge takes 10 small glass flasks out of a shaking incubator, holds each one up against a white card printed with black stripes, and checks how cloudy it is. On the Tuesday I visited, in November, that someone was Noor Hadid, a 26-year-old doctoral student with a pencil behind one ear and a habit of reading each flask’s label aloud before she touches it. The flasks were cloudy, as they always are. Each held 10 milliliters of thin broth turned milky by several hundred million bacteria, every one of them descended from a single tube of Escherichia coli that a young lecturer named Hilde Marrack thawed on a Monday morning in May 1988.

What Hadid does next takes about 25 minutes and has not changed in its essentials since that first Monday. She wipes the bench with alcohol, lights a gas burner to keep the air above her work rising and clean, and lines up 10 fresh flasks of broth, made and warmed the afternoon before. With a new sterile pipette for each, she draws a tenth of a milliliter from every old flask and lets it run into its new partner: one part in a hundred. The new flasks go back into the incubator at 37°C, to be shaken gently for 24 hours. By tomorrow they will have eaten through their sugar and stopped growing, a hundred times more numerous than they began. Then someone will do it again. Hadid writes the day number in a bound ledger, with the time and her initials. The day I watched, it was 13,715.

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